@Tensor

Devlog 11:
-Changed even more components since some were out of stock.
-Added the buttons, switches, etc to the schematic.
-Started over with the Labels on the schematic.
-Did a bunch of research on components and some other things.
Extra:
I have said it once, and I will say it twice.
I HATE MAKING THE SCHEMATIC!!!
So much so that my head hurts.
…
Well. I had to change a lot of the components since they were either out of stock (only Pre-order), or not compatible with the other components. I already did this mistake before. And now I did it again.
Kinda dumb of me but that’s just how it is.
‎
I also added new components for the controls and some other things . Like buttons, magnetic encoders, and a sliding switch.
‎
Here is the battery charger. I think it should work (hopefully). If you see any issues, pls tell me.

Devlog 11:
-Changed even more components since some were out of stock.
-Added the buttons, switches, etc to the schematic.
-Started over with the Labels on the schematic.
-Did a bunch of research on components and some other things.
Extra:
I have said it once, and I will say it twice.
I HATE MAKING THE SCHEMATIC!!!
So much so that my head hurts.
…
Well. I had to change a lot of the components since they were either out of stock (only Pre-order), or not compatible with the other components. I already did this mistake before. And now I did it again.
Kinda dumb of me but that’s just how it is.
‎
I also added new components for the controls and some other things . Like buttons, magnetic encoders, and a sliding switch.
‎
Here is the battery charger. I think it should work (hopefully). If you see any issues, pls tell me.

Devlog 14:
-The Hackpad kit is here!
-Did some improvements on the case.
Extra:
The parts (only the hackpad kit ) are finally here after 1 month of waiting. And I can (not) finally start making the hackpad!
‎‎
Anyway. I totally forgot (didn’t bother doing it) to order the case and PCB until now. But that was actually a good thing, since there where some things I had to change on the case so that everything would fit without any problems.
‎
I’m also considering using KMK instead of QMK since I now know how to code in Python. I’m switching because I don’t know if my code for QMK will work. And because I probably got help from AI more than I was allowed too.
‎
I’ll have to wait until I get either the “Printing Legion” grant or get a reimbursement that I can use JLC3DP to get my case.
Edit:
I got the grant and was about to order the parts. But apparently, JLCPCB adds the Tax and Customs Duties directly in the same order. Which makes the order a whole $37.62! Which is obviously to much to be able to use the 2 grants. Guess I’ll have to wait for reply on Slack before ordering.
‎
Another thing. I’m not sure what the “special something” that was supposed to come in the Hackpad kit was/is. (2nd Image. And there are just parts under the paper).
Here is the link: https://hackclub.enterprise.slack.com/archives/C07S1RDHN14/p1788190369398089

Devlog 14:
-The Hackpad kit is here!
-Did some improvements on the case.
Extra:
The parts (only the hackpad kit ) are finally here after 1 month of waiting. And I can (not) finally start making the hackpad!
‎‎
Anyway. I totally forgot (didn’t bother doing it) to order the case and PCB until now. But that was actually a good thing, since there where some things I had to change on the case so that everything would fit without any problems.
‎
I’m also considering using KMK instead of QMK since I now know how to code in Python. I’m switching because I don’t know if my code for QMK will work. And because I probably got help from AI more than I was allowed too.
‎
I’ll have to wait until I get either the “Printing Legion” grant or get a reimbursement that I can use JLC3DP to get my case.
Edit:
I got the grant and was about to order the parts. But apparently, JLCPCB adds the Tax and Customs Duties directly in the same order. Which makes the order a whole $37.62! Which is obviously to much to be able to use the 2 grants. Guess I’ll have to wait for reply on Slack before ordering.
‎
Another thing. I’m not sure what the “special something” that was supposed to come in the Hackpad kit was/is. (2nd Image. And there are just parts under the paper).
Here is the link: https://hackclub.enterprise.slack.com/archives/C07S1RDHN14/p1788190369398089

Devlog 10:
-Did most of the schematic wiring.
-Did a bit more research on the motor and the “motor driver”.
Extra:
First of all. Making the schematic isn’t fun AT ALL.
When I was making my Hackpad I enjoyed it a little bit.
But THIS.
…
It’s just painful.
‎
And the other thing is that I did some more research on the motor and it’s driver (not as in a chauffeur, but kinda like that). Since I don’t want it to disturb the other components with it’s electric fields.
‎
Anyway. There isn’t much else to report on, so I guess we are done for today.
And I’m tired.
Gn

Devlog 10:
-Did most of the schematic wiring.
-Did a bit more research on the motor and the “motor driver”.
Extra:
First of all. Making the schematic isn’t fun AT ALL.
When I was making my Hackpad I enjoyed it a little bit.
But THIS.
…
It’s just painful.
‎
And the other thing is that I did some more research on the motor and it’s driver (not as in a chauffeur, but kinda like that). Since I don’t want it to disturb the other components with it’s electric fields.
‎
Anyway. There isn’t much else to report on, so I guess we are done for today.
And I’m tired.
Gn

Devlog 9:
-Added all of the symbols to the schematic.
That’s basically it for today

Devlog 9:
-Added all of the symbols to the schematic.
That’s basically it for today

Devlog 8:
-Did a bunch of research on different components, PCB design/production, and more.
-Switched to only SMD components (excluding the Pico2)
Extra:
I’m back after, like, 5 days, I think… I’m not sure.
There are a few reasons to why I haven’t worked these past days, and one of them were that Stardance was nearing it’s end.
Buuuuuuut.
It got extended by 1 month! 🎉
‎
Anyway
I decided on dropping the modules and going for only SMD components instead.
I think that the reason I didn’t go for SMD components to begin with is because I was scared of messing everything up since I have never used them before.
The footprints and symbols I spent some time on are now useless which is a bit depressing. But it’s still better that way so no problem really.
‎
(The Image below is just a placeholder. I’ll switch it too something else soon)

Devlog 7:
-Decided on some changes to the design because I can’t source my own components.
-Researched “metal laser cutting” for accent pieces on the finished design.
Checked component compatibility with different types of audio devices (headphones, IEMs & speakers).
-Learnt (kinda) how to convert and how to make my own symbols and footprints in KiCAD. (Hated it. Never want to do it again )
Extra:
It’s been a while since my last devlog. I’m still a bit sick since the last devlog so I’ll keep it a bit shorter than usual.

1. The “rocker thingy” on the side of the TP-7 requires a bit of work and testing for it to work properly, so I will skip it for now. And if I don’t have time or decide to skip it, I’ll just make a version of it that’s integrated into the side of the case. Kinda like the volume button on most phones and tablets.
2. I don’t want the device to just look like a 3d-printed slab. I want it to look like a well polished device that could be mistaken for a real product. So I will do some more research on “cheap” materials that I can use for the overall case. And to make it look even better, I think I’ll add metal accent pieces for the buttons and symbols. I don’t mind using my own money for this since I’m not sure if the fund will cover that.
3. Just let me say that making the symbols and footprints has been the worst and most boring thing about any project that I’ve made.

1st image:
Here is a quick sketch I made during class. The 2 black rectangles on the front face are screens.
2nd image:
I found a powerbank with (almost) the perfect dimensions. The pink post-it notes have the real dimensions.

Devlog 7:
-Decided on some changes to the design because I can’t source my own components.
-Researched “metal laser cutting” for accent pieces on the finished design.
Checked component compatibility with different types of audio devices (headphones, IEMs & speakers).
-Learnt (kinda) how to convert and how to make my own symbols and footprints in KiCAD. (Hated it. Never want to do it again )
Extra:
It’s been a while since my last devlog. I’m still a bit sick since the last devlog so I’ll keep it a bit shorter than usual.

1. The “rocker thingy” on the side of the TP-7 requires a bit of work and testing for it to work properly, so I will skip it for now. And if I don’t have time or decide to skip it, I’ll just make a version of it that’s integrated into the side of the case. Kinda like the volume button on most phones and tablets.
2. I don’t want the device to just look like a 3d-printed slab. I want it to look like a well polished device that could be mistaken for a real product. So I will do some more research on “cheap” materials that I can use for the overall case. And to make it look even better, I think I’ll add metal accent pieces for the buttons and symbols. I don’t mind using my own money for this since I’m not sure if the fund will cover that.
3. Just let me say that making the symbols and footprints has been the worst and most boring thing about any project that I’ve made.

1st image:
Here is a quick sketch I made during class. The 2 black rectangles on the front face are screens.
2nd image:
I found a powerbank with (almost) the perfect dimensions. The pink post-it notes have the real dimensions.

Devlog 6:
-Researched case materials and production methods
-Checked component compatibility
-Switched to a Li-Ion battery and some other components too
-Checked JLCPCB’s parts library to see if they could mount some components on the PCB for me
-Started on a GitHub repo for this project
Extra:
Haven’t made a devlog in a few days and I’m super tired so I’ll just leave it like this (this time).

Devlog 6:
-Researched case materials and production methods
-Checked component compatibility
-Switched to a Li-Ion battery and some other components too
-Checked JLCPCB’s parts library to see if they could mount some components on the PCB for me
-Started on a GitHub repo for this project
Extra:
Haven’t made a devlog in a few days and I’m super tired so I’ll just leave it like this (this time).

Devlog 5:
-Found a better screen for the device
-Decided on various types of switches for the device
-Checked possible layouts for the electronics
-Found another battery with better overall dimensions
-Checked some printing materials & options on JLC3DP
-Found a few other components for QoL features
Extra:
I have done quite a lot of research on everything today.

1. The switches:
   The final layout for the device is not completely decided yet. But I think I’ll keep 2 of the front-facing buttons for “pause/play” and “skip-/previous track”. I’ll also add one “3-position sliding switch” (for motor on/auto/off options) and one “2-position sliding switch” (for device on/off) on the side of the case.
2. The Quality of Life features:
   Too be able to get that seamless screen look on the TP-7, I can use a processed Acrylic piece. It makes it so that the pixels seem to be floating inside the acrylic window, which looks awesome.
   I will maybe add a light sensor so it know when it is in a pocket. The sensor will be active/used when the “motor on/auto/off switch” is set to “auto”.
3. The texture & material:
   I’m not completely sure what material to use yet, but I want the same texture/feel that’s on the LAMY Safari pens (matte Umbra version). There is 1 material on JLC3DP that looks promising.
   ‎
   If you are interested and want to see how it turns out. Press follow.

Devlog 5:
-Found a better screen for the device
-Decided on various types of switches for the device
-Checked possible layouts for the electronics
-Found another battery with better overall dimensions
-Checked some printing materials & options on JLC3DP
-Found a few other components for QoL features
Extra:
I have done quite a lot of research on everything today.

1. The switches:
   The final layout for the device is not completely decided yet. But I think I’ll keep 2 of the front-facing buttons for “pause/play” and “skip-/previous track”. I’ll also add one “3-position sliding switch” (for motor on/auto/off options) and one “2-position sliding switch” (for device on/off) on the side of the case.
2. The Quality of Life features:
   Too be able to get that seamless screen look on the TP-7, I can use a processed Acrylic piece. It makes it so that the pixels seem to be floating inside the acrylic window, which looks awesome.
   I will maybe add a light sensor so it know when it is in a pocket. The sensor will be active/used when the “motor on/auto/off switch” is set to “auto”.
3. The texture & material:
   I’m not completely sure what material to use yet, but I want the same texture/feel that’s on the LAMY Safari pens (matte Umbra version). There is 1 material on JLC3DP that looks promising.
   ‎
   If you are interested and want to see how it turns out. Press follow.

Devlog 4:
-Think I have figured out what to do with the motor
-Searched for a new low-power BLDC motor driver board (what gives power and controls the motor, “kinda”).
Extra:

1. I think I know how to prevent the electric field caused by the motor and the inconsistent power-draw from interfering with the audio components.
   -Since the motor uses very low power, the fields shouldn’t be as strong as normal. And because of that, some copper-tape wrapped around the motor (with some space between) and then connected to ground should be enough to absorb the electric fields (maybe not the right term but who cares).
   And to neutralize the inconsistent power-draw, I can just use some resistors (hopefully) between the motor and power-module, and then between the motor and ground.
   I’ll do a bit more research to be sure.
2. The old motor driver I found apparently needed 8-30V. Which is quite a lot for what I’m making. So after roughly 30 min of searching I finally found the “SparkFun Brushless Motor Driver - 3-Phase (TMC6300)” on their own website. It’s ~18$ + shipping (not that bad), but I really can’t find another one that would work for this specific use case. Searched though AliExpress but just found ones that requiered 5-30V and something else that’s slightly inappropriate (and completely unrelated) instead

Here is the module I found:

Devlog 4:
-Think I have figured out what to do with the motor
-Searched for a new low-power BLDC motor driver board (what gives power and controls the motor, “kinda”).
Extra:

1. I think I know how to prevent the electric field caused by the motor and the inconsistent power-draw from interfering with the audio components.
   -Since the motor uses very low power, the fields shouldn’t be as strong as normal. And because of that, some copper-tape wrapped around the motor (with some space between) and then connected to ground should be enough to absorb the electric fields (maybe not the right term but who cares).
   And to neutralize the inconsistent power-draw, I can just use some resistors (hopefully) between the motor and power-module, and then between the motor and ground.
   I’ll do a bit more research to be sure.
2. The old motor driver I found apparently needed 8-30V. Which is quite a lot for what I’m making. So after roughly 30 min of searching I finally found the “SparkFun Brushless Motor Driver - 3-Phase (TMC6300)” on their own website. It’s ~18$ + shipping (not that bad), but I really can’t find another one that would work for this specific use case. Searched though AliExpress but just found ones that requiered 5-30V and something else that’s slightly inappropriate (and completely unrelated) instead

Here is the module I found:

Devlog 3:
-Finally found good screens
-Making sure that the motor won’t theoretically interfere with the other components
Extra:
I have both good and bad news.
The good news is that I finally decided on which screens to use (I’ll probably use 2). And the bad news are that when I did some research yesterday before going to bed. I found out that almost no one else has made their own version of the TP-7 by Teenage Engineering. And that’s because of 2 reasons.
‎
First, the complexity. Teenage Engineering made all of the components in-house so that everything would fit together. Which is why their device is so compact. While us on the other hand can only (for the most part) get off-the-shelf components.
‎
The second reason is that the motor has a magnetic and an electric field (the magnetic field isn’t as bad as the electric one). Which can interfere with the other electronics, which is very bad for sound focused devices.
‎
Guess that’s another problem to solve then.
I will not give up until the very end (i think)

Devlog 3:
-Finally found good screens
-Making sure that the motor won’t theoretically interfere with the other components
Extra:
I have both good and bad news.
The good news is that I finally decided on which screens to use (I’ll probably use 2). And the bad news are that when I did some research yesterday before going to bed. I found out that almost no one else has made their own version of the TP-7 by Teenage Engineering. And that’s because of 2 reasons.
‎
First, the complexity. Teenage Engineering made all of the components in-house so that everything would fit together. Which is why their device is so compact. While us on the other hand can only (for the most part) get off-the-shelf components.
‎
The second reason is that the motor has a magnetic and an electric field (the magnetic field isn’t as bad as the electric one). Which can interfere with the other electronics, which is very bad for sound focused devices.
‎
Guess that’s another problem to solve then.
I will not give up until the very end (i think)

Devlog 2:
-Made a quick model and drawing of the layout i want.
-Searched for components (only the screen…)
Extra:
Ok guys. Does, ANYONE, know. Where I can get an OLED bar display, that is a single color and not the 0.91 inch model. I have literally been searching for over an hour after a screen that would fit. The whole module needs to be smaller than 60x20mm. Please let me know if you have any recommendations.